Yamaha 30 hp 2 stroke service manual




















Place the O-ring on the filter body, install the element, and screw in the filter cup. Referring to the diagram, install the fuel system. When connecting the fuel hoses to the fuel filter, follow the direction of flow indicated by the embossed arrows. Place the clips in position, connect the hoses, and tighten the clips. Check for leaks. Remove the silencer cover, disconnect the fuel hoses and links, then remove the carburetor. Protect your eyes and the eyes of other persons by directing the flow of compressed-air downward, noting that solvent and small parts may be blown off.

Inspect the carburetor body for cracks or clogging of the passages. Collar 1. Inspect the collar at the end of the accelerator-arm for wear, and replace if required. Float 1. Visually inspect the float for damage or cracks, and replace if required. Measure the float height. If it is more than 1 mm 0. E Fuel pump 1. Using a screwdriver, disassemble the fuel pump. Visually inspect the pump body for cracks, and replace if required.

Inspect the valves for cracks or distortion, and replace if required. Inspect the diaphragm for sign of damage, perforation or stretching, and replace if required. Insert the main nozzle fully, and screw in the main jet until tight. Screw in the pilot jet fully, and install the cap. Install the needle-valve on the float, attach the float to the carburetor body with the float-pin, and tighten the screw. Install a new gasket to the float-chamber, install it to the carburetor body, and secure with the screws.

Install the diaphragm, body, cover, with the new gasket, and secure with the screws to the carburetor. Install the pilot-screw with its spring, screw it in tight and then screw it back the specified number of turns out. Install the carburetors and plate with new gaskets. Connect the fuel hoses to the carburetors, and fit the hose-clips over the recesses to ensure leak-proof connections. Connect the choke link-rods, choke lever and accelerator-lever rod to each carburetor.

Connect the oil-pump link-rod to the carburetor and oil-injection pump. Drain the oil from the oil-tank and remove the carburetor. Disconnect the hoses and remove the oil-injection system. Using solvent, clean the oil-tank. Drain the solvent and dry the tank. Inspect the oil-tank for cracks, and replace it if required. Oil-level gauge Refer to page Oil-hoses 1. Inspect the oil-hoses for damage or cracks, and replace them if required. Connect the oil-hoses to the oil-pump, and tighten the clips on the hoses.

Install the oil-pump to the power-head. Assemble the oil-tank and install it. Connect the oil delivery-hoses to the intake manifolds, and tighten the clips on the hoses. Install the carburetor. Lead the wire of the oil-level sensor to the starboard side of the engine, and connect the cores.

Cylinder head cover Head cover gasket Cylinder head Cylinder head gasket Thermostat Thermostat cover. Clean all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material from the engine before the engine is removed and disassembled. To ensure that you can perform the work cleanly and efficiently, check that you have the proper tools and cleaning equipment before commencing engine removal and disassembly.

During engine disassembly, as parts are disassembled, clean them and place them in trays in their order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and help ensure that all parts are correctly reinstalled.

NOTE: When disassembling the engine, keep mated parts together, e. Mated sets should be re-used on reassembly, or replaced complete. Remove the electrical system parts referring to page Remove the fuel system parts referring to page Disconnect the hoses and control cables referring to the illustrations. Remove the apron and power head installation bolts, and then remove the power head from the upper casing.

Cylinder head with the cylinder head cover. Exhaust cover and thermostat cover 4. Oil seal housing Remove the oil seal one by one from housing. Piston 8. When disassembling the piston and piston pin, place a tray under the connecting rod to catch the needle bearings. Only carry out removal of the crankshaft bearing if the bearing is malfunctioning.

Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the cylinder head. Using a round scraper, remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber. Using a soft brush, clean the water jacket. Inspection 1. Using a precision straight-edge and feeler-gauge, measure the surface contacting the cylinder block for warping. Warpage limit: 0. If the degree of warping exceeds the specification, re-surface the cylinder head as follows.

Place grit wet-or-dry sandpaper on the surface-plate, and resurface the cylinder head by moving in a figure-eight sanding pattern. Using a gasket-scraper, remove all traces of gasket material from the cylinder-block surface. Using a soft brush and solvent, clean the cylinder-block. Visually inspect the cylinder sleeves for cracks and scratches. If cracks are found, replace the cylinder block. If scratches are found, check the degree of out-of-round, and then hone the cylinder or rebore it if necessary.

Using a cylinder-gauge, measure the cylinder bore at three positions in the thrust and axial directions. Cylinder bore size: Using a gasket-scraper, remove the carbon from the piston top. Using a broken ring, clean the ring grooves. Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the piston.

Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right angles to the piston-pin center-line, 10 mm 0. Piston diameter: Standard: Using the measured cylinder bore diameter in thrust directions, subtract the piston diameter measurement from the cylinder bore diameter measurement.

Piston clearance: 0. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the piston ring and the ring groove. Side clearance: Top ring and 2nd ring: 0. If the clearance is not within the specifications, replace the piston. Insert the piston ring into the cylinder. Using a piston, push the piston ring a little beyond the bottom of the ring travel to a depth of 20 mm 0.

Ring end gap installed : Top ring and 2nd ring: 0. NOTE: If the clearance is greater than maximum even with a new piston ring, rebore the cylinder and use an over-size piston and piston ring. Use a soft brush and solvent to clean the parts.

Visually inspect for surface defects, breakage, scratches and pitting. If it is decided to replace the small end bearings, replace them all. Place the crankshaft on a crankshaftaligner or on V-blocks. Using dial gauge, measure the deflection. Maximum deflection: 0. Using feeler gauges, measure the connecting-rod side clearance. Connecting-rod side clearance: 0. Using a dial gauge, measure the connecting-rod axial play.

Connecting rod maximum axial play: 2. Visually inspect for warping of the reed valve. If warped, measure the distortion with feeler gauges.

Maximum reed warp a: 0. Using a vernier caliper, measure the valve stopper height. Valve stopper height b: 2. Visually inspect for cracks on the reed valve. If cracks are found, replace the reed valve. Using a soft brush and water, remove all traces of salt, dirt or corrosion. Visually inspect the thermostat for damage. If the thermostat is damaged, or if it opens when cold, replace it. Immerse the thermostat in water, and heat the water gradually.

Check the valve opening temperature and the valve lift. If the valve opening and or temperature and valve-lift are not within the specifications, replace the thermostat. Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the bearing. Dry it with air, and sparingly lubricate it with two-cycle outboard motor oil.

Hold the bearing inner race and slowly turn the bearing outer race with your fingers. If any rough spots are felt, replace the bearing. Visually inspect drive gear teeth for cracks pitting or wear, and replace the gear if such are found. Visually inspect driven gear teeth for cracks pitting or wear, and replace the gear if such are found.

Using press, install the oil pump drive gear and the new bearing. Install the new O-ring. Lubricate the bearing with two-cycle outboard motor oil. Apply water resistant grease or equivalent to the inside lip of the oil seal and to the O-ring. Count the small-end bearing needles. Number of needles per piston: 28 pcs.

Using the special tool, install the bearings in the connecting-rod small end, and place washers on both sides. Insert the piston-pin into the piston. Install the piston in the connectingrod small end, insert the piston-pin, and then install new piston-pin clips. Lubricate each bearing with two-cycle outboard-motor oil. Lubricate the piston-rings and pistons with two-cycle outboard-motor oil, and install the crank assembly into the cylinder block. Lift the crank assembly a little so as to be able to install a washer on the lower crank-case, and align each locating-pin of the bearings and labyrinth-seals with each cut on the cylinder-block, then fit the crank assembly in place.

Film-coat the cylinder-block mating surface with Gasket Maker or equivalent. Install the dowel-pins. Install the new gaskets, cylinder-head cover and exhaust cover. Cylinder head: 1st step: 15 Nm 1. Exhaust cover: 1st step: 3 Nm 0. Install the reed valve assembly, and the gasket reed valve plate to the intake manifold.

Install the manifold assembly to the crankcase, and tighten the bolts in sequence and in two steps of torque. Before removing it, put a mark indicating its position on the anticavitation plate. Be sure to remove the drain plug first. Let the gear oil drain into a tray so that it will not spill on the floor. If no repair stand is available, grip the skeg in a vise. To protect the skeg against damage, wrap it with a rag. Straighten one or two of the lobes of the lock screwed into the gear case.

Fit the special tool over the ring nut tightly, or the tool may slip off thus and damage the ring nut. To remove the ring nut, turn it in the direction to the OFF mark on the ring nut. Pull the shift rod out by pushing the shift rod boot plate through the hole in the outer surface of the lower case with a slotted head screw driver.

Using the drive shaft torquing tool and a box wrench, remove the pinion nut, and remove the pinion, drive shaft and forward gear from the gear case. When removing the forward gear outer race, remove the slide hammer puller guide first so that the race. NOTE: On a gear into which a needle bearing is fitted, pull out the taper roller bearing while taking care.

DRIVE SHAFT Place the drive shaft upside down, and insert the bearing separator between the taper roller bearthreaded portion of the drive shaft and screw it in so that the side of the nut is flush with the end of the drive shaft. The drive shaft can now be removed using a hydraulic press. Check the water pump joints for air leakage.

Check the impeller for wear. Check the cartridge outer plate for wear and scratches. Check the forward, reverse, and pinion gears If any one of the gears is damaged, all gears should be replaced. Replacement of the taper roller bearing should be made on assembly of the inner race and outer race.

Dial gauge 2. Propellershaft 3. V-block 2. Check the contact surfaces of propeller shaft and the oil seals for grooved wear. Check the propeller shaft splines for wear. Check the clutch dog and splines for wear. Check the contact surfaces of shift cam and shifter for wear.

Check the propeller blades and splines for wear and scratches. Check the propeller nut castle type for damage on threads. Check the contact surface of the drive shaft and the oil seal for grooved wear.

Check the drive shaft splines both engine and pinion side. Check the ball bearing and needle bearing for grooved wear.

If pinion nut corners are worn or damaged, replace the pinion nut. Shim adjustments are required if the following parts are. NOTE: drive shaft in the lower case. Shim Make adjustment a shim adjustment beforewithout installingtightthe 2.

When tightening the pinion, avoid gripping the drive shaft in a vise. Install the pinion nut torquing tool onto the drive shaft, and grip the torquing tool in a vise, Install the collar special tool and taper roller bearing outer race onto the shimming gauge and install the drive shaft with taper roller bearing inner race.

Read the value indicated by P. By referring to the measurement on the thickness gauge and the value indicated by P on the gear case and consulting the table, determine the proper shim thickness.

Refer to page Place the outer race of the forward gear over the inner race. NOTE: roller bearing on a surface plate. Measure the thickness of the forward taper. Place the shimming gauge over the bearing. Measure the clearance between the shimming gauge and the thrust bearing.

Determine the shim thickness by referring to. NOTE: 2. Measure the clearance between the shimming gauge and forward gear. Determine the shim thickness by referringto both values and the table. The shims areavailable in 0. The use of any used oil seal or O-ring may result in oil leakage due to invisible scratches or stretches. Apply grease to parts where specified. O Needle bearing Insert the driver rod into the needle bearing installer, and screw the attachment over the rod.

Place the pinion gear shim s in the gear case. Place the forward gear in the gear case, and bring the pinion to mesh with the forward gear.

Place the drive shaft in the gear case, and insert it into the pinion. NOTE: The bearing should be installed so that the mark on the bearing is on the exposed-to view side. InInstall: 3. Install the clutch dog so that its cross pin hole is aligned with the slot in the splined portion of the propeller shaft. As shown, insert the cross pin by pushing the spring using a slotted-head screw-driver, then install the cross pin ring.

Install the two oil seals in the oil seal housing, one by one, and coat the lips with Yamaha Grease A. I,ow, I EA. When the gears are assembled, gear backlash can be guessed from the shim installed, but it is not always accurate. So, after installing the gears, be sure to check gear backlash. If any backlash is out of the standard specifiBy checking the gear backlash, smooth gear cation, disassemble the gear case, follow the.

Install the bearing housing puller in the bearing housing and tighten the center bolt and lock the forward gear. These formulas can be expressed by the following graphs: When the measurement is 0.

Install a propeller without a thrust washer on the propeller shaft. Be sure the front side of the and tighten backward, is facing prop the which was housing puller bearing Remove 1.

Lock the reverse gear. Slowly turn the drive shaft in and out and read the dial gauge when it stops in each direction, 3.

When the measurement is 0. Install the gear case to the upper case. Make sure that the drive shaft splines firmly fit into the crankshaft splines, and that the water tube fits firmly into the water pump. Screw the nut into the shift rod mm. If the holes in the propeller nut and propeller shaft do not align, screw in the propeller nut so that the holes align. Lubrication gear oil Add hypoid gear oil No.

Remove the circlip, and pull out the lower mount housing aownward. Loosen the friction adjusting bolt, and pull out the steering pivot shaft. NOTE: Use two of the engine mount bolt to remove the exhaust guide from the upper casing. As shown, screw in the bolt and lift up the exhaust guide. Apply grease or replace parts as required. Check the muffler and exhaust pipe for carbon accumulation and salt deposits. Remove the carbon and salt deposits as required. Replace rfaceoftheuppercas Checkthecontactsu 2.

Check the water tube and water seal rubber sealing surface for water leakage. Replace if. Check the pivot shaft bushings for wear and salt accumulation. Apply grease or replace part s as required. Check the anode for melting. Replace if necessary. T [ Before starting the disassembly, assembly or parts, be sure to of electrical checking remove the battery wires and the spark plug cap.

Protect from severe shocks. Keep away from heat. Avoid extremely humid places. An overheat warning circuit and an over-rev limiter circuit are also built into this CDI unit. Overheat warning system: When cylinder head temperature exceeds a predetermined level, the thermoswitch on the cylinder head is activated and engine speed is gradually reduced.

The system therefore prevents the engine from overheating, In addition, the warning buzzer in the control box sounds to warn the operator that the engine temperature is too high. Overrev limiter: Overrevving may occur due to sudden changes in engine load. The following graphs indicate the effect of these systems on engine speed:. Green Measure:.

NOTE: The charge coil and light coil are made in an assembly. Therefore, if either coil becomes faulty, both coils must be replaced. When A and C are connected:. NOTE: The table shows representative figures obtained by tester checks. Standard spark plug cap and remove plug capcap spring from the 1. Remove the the spark plug by pulling thehighcap tension cable. Avoid removing the spark plug cap by pulling the wire hard, or the wire will be damaged.

Be sure to remove it by turning in and out. Be careful not to touch the ignition coil and its vicinity while performing testing. An electric shock may cause injury. Test by turning the starter motor To clip on the high-tension cable, remove the plug cap and clip on the core wires of the cable.

Connect the secondary lead wire of the coil tester to the ignition coil as shown. By cranking the motor, check the strength of spark. If the spark can jump at least across an 8 mm. NOTE: The performance of the ignition coil will be affected by heat. The spark test should therefore be performed at intervals of 5 to 10 minutes for correct test results. To avoid any danger of an electric shock, be sure to disconnect the battery wires on the battery before removing the starter motor.

Armature a. Check the surfaces of the commutator. Using sandpaper or , smooth out any rough surface. If roughened excessively, turn the commutator in a lathe. If run-out is 0. Check whether the brush holders are bent or whether the contact surfaces are dirty and recondition or clean as required. Check continuity between the insulated brush holder and ground.

Continuity--, Replace. Note the following: 1. After making sure the engine is ready to start turn the starting switch to ON. If starting is hard, turn off the switch and turn it on again after 10 seconds. Repeat this operation until the engine starts. Avoid turning the starter motor longer than required. Never attempt to turn on the starter motor while the engine is running. Align the cut in the front cover with the projection on the stator.

Apply a thin coat of Yamaha grease C antifreeze grease to the front and rear cover bearings. Next, tighten the using pliers. Make sure the clip fits tightly into the pinion stopper. Using pliers, slightly open the clip. Hold the pi-. If any element is broken, replace the entire unit. Never connect the rectifier directly to the battery to check continuity. When testing, disconnect the battery terminals. When resistance is measured at less than , it can be said that there is continuity.

Green1 oo No continuity 4. If the battery shows the following defects, it should be replaced. The battery voltage will not rise to a specific value not will bubbles rise in any cell, even after many hours of charging. Sulfation of one or more cells occurs, as indicated by the plates turning white or an accumulation of material in the bottom of the cell.

Specific gravity readings after a long, slow charge indicate one cell to be lower than any of the others. Warpage or bucking or plates or insulators is oviclont. Avoid contact with the skin, eyes, or clothing. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten eggs or vegetable oil. Call a physician immediately.

Keep sparks, flames, cigarettes, etc. Ventilate when charging or using in an enclosed space. Always shield your eyes when working near a battery. The service life of a battery is usually two to three years. Lack of care, as described below, will shorten the life of the battery. Battery left discharged. Over-charging with heavy charge. Filling with tap water or sulfuric acid con-. If the outboard motor is not to be used for a long time, remove the battery and have it stored.

The following instructions should be observed: 1. Recharge the battery periodically. Store the battery in a cool, dry place 3. Recharge the battery before reinstallation. Recharging current Until specific gravity reaches 1, Distilled water to maxRefill fluid imum level line.

Infinite resistance, short circuit-, Replace. Remove the thermoswitch from the cylinder. Never very thethermoswitch Handle 1. Avoid result. While heating the water, check the continuity at each temperature. If the thermoswitch will not operate as shown in the table below, the thermoswitch is faulty. It should be replaced. Temperature gauge 2. Thermoswitch 3. Pocket tester. Avoid pushing the thermo switch hard into the cylinder head, or leads may break at soldered areas.

No Brown 2. Ground 2. Black lead--, Negative terminal. If the relay clicks but the tester needle does not deflector or the relay does not click and the testerlead--, needle does not deflect-, Replace. Brown Positive terminal. The wires and pins of iden-. When the conthe these pastturn is turned, lever into trol control lever thepositions, forward, To shift throttle begins to open.

Free accelerator lever. OX CO. EMO 1. Loosen the bolt until the bolt head comes out of the gear, and pull the control lever out of the gear by tapping the bolt with a plastic-. Remote control box Thoroughly clean the removed parts with a suitable cleaning solvent and check for cracks, wear or other defects. Replace as required. NTLm l. Thread the cable joints 8 mm 0. Hold the joints to prevent them from turning and tighten the cable nuts against them.

Hook the shift cable outer wire onto the cable anchor on the remote control box, install on the cable joint the shift arm, and hold it with the clip. Next, install the spacer on the cable anchor on the remote control box; hook the throttle cable outer wire onto the cable anchor on the.

The bottom of the control box should be just above the seat line or cushions. It may be necessary to shim the mounting surface to permit sufficient hand clearance. Having positioned the control box, measure the distance from the control box hub A straight back to the corner of the transom B and then across to the middle center of the motor C, as shown by the illustration. NOTE: Do not bend the cables into a diameter smaller than the recommended mm 16 in.

Swing and tilt the motor through its entire range making sure the caand holding them the selected through buckle. Position the control box on the mounting surface chosen in step 1 Position control box.

Support the cables with cable hangers or by similar means. Do not use any devices which might flatten or distort them. Shift the control a few times making sure that the motor shift lever stops in its three positions. The movement of the control lever should correspond with the movement of the shift and throttle levers at the motor.

The motor shift lever position must be determined by the control cable only, and should not be jammed against forward or reverse stops. Adjust the shift cable terminals at the shift and first until proper operation is obtained. When the throttle cable is correctly adjusted, the engine speed will remain at idle while the control lever is shifted and will increase only when the control lever is moved beyond the shift detent.

Adjust the throttle cable terminals at carburetor and first until proper operation is obtained. The control lever should operate freely. Any stiffness is usually attributable to excessive cable bends, tight motor linkage, or improperly adjusted terminals. If necessary, readjust the cable terminals to match proper travel for the levers of the motor. Remove the starter stop plunger from the starter case.

Remove the three starter assembly mounting bolts and then remove the starter assembly. Remove the circlip securing the drive pawl, and remove the drive pawl and drive pawl spring. Drive pawl 2. Drive pawl spring.

Turn the sheave drum so that the cutaway on the outer surface of the sheave drum faces toward the starter handle. Pass the starter rope through the cut. Turn the sheave drum clockwise until the starter spring is free. Remove the bolt at the center of the starter case and then remove the bushing and the sheave drum.

NOTE: When removing the sheave drum, hold down the starter spring so that the starter spring will not spring out.

When removing the sheave drum, be sure to set the spring free. Otherwise, the starter spring may fly out and cause injury. Holding the spring with one hand, unfold the spring from its center with the other. Be careful the spring does not jump out. When removing or installing the starter spring, use care not to injure your hand.

It is advisable to wear gloves. Check the drive pawl spring for bends or breaks and replace as required. Check the starter rope for wear or breaks and replace as required. NOTE: When replacing the rope, cut it to the specified length and burn the rope end so that it will not travel. NOTE: A brand new starter spring is held in a steel hoop. To replace with a new one, hook its outer end on to the retainer post first, and put it onto the starter case, then remove the steel hoop.

Place the rope at the cutaway. Position the inner end of the starter spring on the retainer post of the sheave drum. Wind with the the starter spring up rope. Pass the starter rope thorugh the cut. BR-7HS10 mm 0. Drive unit: Transmission Gear ratio Reduction system Clutch type Turning direction of propeller Propeller drive system.

Specifications are subject to change without prior notice. NOTE: The table shows representativefigures obtained by tester checks. Components should be at. Fuel tank Priming pump Fuel hoses Plug cap Ignition coil CDI unit Pulser coil Imagine being stuck in the middle of a lake with a malfunctioning motor and no cell service.

If you get stranded far out to sea, this could quickly escalate into a life-and-death scenario. But with a 30hp manual, a basic tool kit, and a firm grasp of the principles and working parts of your motor, you can get your boat up and running and make it safely back to shore.

For cost, safety, convenience, and self-reliance, an outboard repair manual is a must. The Yamaha 30hp manual can be downloaded and saved directly to your computer, tablet, or smartphone. The downloadable version is identical to the paper manuals that can be purchased at any local auto parts store.

If the bearing needs to be replaced remove it using Slide Hammer A1. If bearing is rusted or does not roll freely, replace bearing. Discard oil seals. Remove propeller shaft seals if not removed with bearing in Step 9 and bearing carrier O-ring. Apply constant pressure to cam follower in order to prevent it and internal components from ejecting out of the propeller shaft during removal of the cross pin from the clutch.

Remove components from propeller shaft. Replace cam follower if worn or pitted. Replace sliding clutch if jaws are rounded or chipped. Rounded jaws indicate one or more of the following:.

Replace propeller shaft if any of the following exist:. Prop shaft trueness should be measured with a dial indicator with prop shaft on V-blocks. Hold drive shaft using Drive Shaft Holding Tool; remove and discard pinion nut. Remove drive shaft, pinion gear, pinion bearing and forward gear. Replace pinion gear if it is chipped or worn.

Replace pinion bearing and race if either are rusted, pitted or damaged; or if bearing does not roll freely. Replace forward gear if gear teeth or clutch teeth are chipped or worn.



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